Making the most of your visit to Ireland

by Allison Duvall

I couldn't be more excited that we're taking our very first McTeggart group field trip to Ireland to attend the Joe Mooney Summer School in Drumshanbo, County Leitrim, from July 18–25. As I sat down to write a pre-trip message, I realized that there’s no reason not to share these Ireland travel tips more broadly. Hence, this blog post.

There are so many reasons I'm looking forward to this trip, but perhaps the biggest is introducing some of our McTeggart dancers to the aspects of Irish dance, music, and culture that keep feeding and inspiring me as a dancer and teacher: the beauty, joy, and pure fun of the communal experience of traditional music and dance. Whether you're dancing in a céilí, listening to (or playing in) an incredible pub session, or simply chatting with new friends after an evening of ceol agus rince (music and dance), there's something magical and even transcendent about it. It’s these kinds of things that refresh, renew, and reinvigorate my practice of Irish traditional arts.

I wanted to put together a few tips to help everyone prepare for an amazing adventure. After many trips to Ireland over the years, I've accumulated a few favorite travel habits that have made my visits. more enjoyable.

I’m focusing on the northwest of the Republic of Ireland in this post, but if you want recommendations on County Kerry (including Killarney, Dingle peninsula, Valentia Island, Skellig Michael), the Burren (my top four must-do’s are Burren Perfumery, Caherconnell, the Poulnabrone Dolmen, and Cliffs of Moher - yes, even though it’s extremely tourist-y; for dancing, you must plan to attend a set dancing céilí in Miltown Malbay), Dublin (all the revolutionary sites, Riverdance at the Gaiety, the Guinness storehouse, and definitely visit my favorite museum, the EPIC), County Antrim (Northern Ireland), and more, please reach out!

Dancers: use sets.ie as your go-to for finding set dancing céilithe. I often plan my itinerary around where I want to go dance.

Rent a Car!

Yes, Ireland has buses and trains that connect the major towns and cities, but to truly experience rural Ireland, you'll want your own vehicle.

Rent a car. Take it slow and get used to driving on the left side of the road. After a day or two of practice, it will feel more natural.

I've always had good experiences renting through Hertz, which has pickup locations throughout Ireland. For this trip, I'll be flying into Shannon Airport in County Clare and picking up my rental car directly from the Hertz desk there. Hertz also has a location in Sligo, the nearest major town to Carrick-on-Shannon (home base for our group trip), Dublin, Cork, and elsewhere.

Credit Cards, Cash & Banking

If possible, bring a credit card that doesn't charge international transaction fees; it can save you quite a bit over the course of your trip. Most places allow credit card transactions; I rarely use cash in Ireland.

If you need cash, it’s easy to come by. ATMs are plentiful, even in smaller towns.

For extra peace of mind, it's worth letting your bank know you'll be traveling internationally so purchases made in Ireland aren't flagged as suspicious.

A Few Creature Comforts

One thing I've learned over the years is that things I consider norms at home aren’t norms in Ireland.

For starters, in my experience, washcloths aren't commonly provided in hotels, B&Bs, or Airbnbs, so I always pack one or two of my own for washing my face.

I love the place where I usually stay in Carrick-on-Shannon (The Courtyard Apartments - “self-catering apartments,” meaning they do not provide breakfast and you’ll have a kitchen), but like many vacation rentals, the kitchen isn't always stocked the way I like to cook. I usually pack a few small items I know I'll use: a good paring knife, a small cutting board, a cafetière (small French press), a garlic press, small food storage containers, a wine key/bottle opener, a vegetable peeler, a sponge, and a couple of extra kitchen towels. The Courtyard has in-apartment washing machine for laundry, but you can also find launderettes in the town, too.

If you have a favorite brand of laundry detergent or another personal item you can't live without, you may want to pack that as well. Otherwise, just about everything you'll need can easily be found, even in smaller towns like Carrick-on-Shannon. A major grocery chain in Ireland is Tesco (you’ll find British grocery chain M&S - Marks & Spencer - in various places, too), which you’ll find in Carrick-on-Shannon, and there are also pharmacies, electronics shops, clothing shops, and more. You’ll be able to get anything you need in any major town, and for our group, you’ll be all set in Carrick-on-Shannon.

Don't Miss These Local Adventures

County Leitrim and the surrounding counties are absolutely stunning, and I hope everyone has a chance to explore beyond Carrick-on-Shannon (home base) and Drumshanbo (where the Joe Mooney Summer School is held).

A few recommendations:

  • Hike Sheemore (The Fairy Hill), which has strong connections to Ireland’s mythological folklore (the Tuatha de Danaan are said to have used the portals at the summit of Sheemore to access the Otherworld). It is on private land, so be courteous, kind, and leave no trace. The views alone are worth the climb. We’ll connect as a group on doing this walk together. Some info here. Because it’s on private land, I’ve not found it on any tourism sites.

  • Also in County Leitrim, highly recommend a relaxing cruise on the River Shannon with Moon River Cruises; Manorhamilton; Seán Mac Diarmada Cottage; the Effrinagh crossroads where Jimmy Gralton’s Hall once stood (watch the feature film Jimmy’s Hall, which tells the story of the only Irish man to ever be deported from the Irish Republic, and donate to the local effort to rebuild the hall). There’s more! I’ll add to the post here.

  • Nearby to Leitrim:

    • Coming as we do from a part of the U.S. with a rich coal-mining history, I’d recommend a stop at the Arigna Mining Experience in County Roscommon. (Many of the miners were also dancers and musicians, and you’ll see their legacy in the music and dancing of the region.)

    • Visit Benbulben in neighboring County Sligo, one of Ireland's most iconic mountains.

    • Make a day trip to Athlone on the border between County Westmeath and Couty Roscommon, where you can enjoy lunch or a pint at Sean's Bar, widely recognized as Europe's oldest pub.

    • If you have extra time, head north into County Donegal, one of Ireland's most spectacular counties, with dramatic coastlines, mountains, beaches, and charming villages.

  • We will be somewhat close to the Ireland/U.K. border. Make sure to have your passports and research any fees from your rental car company should you choose to cross into Northern Ireland.

Plan Your Days (and Your Naps!)

If you're planning to take classes during the Joe Mooney Summer School—and I certainly hope you do!—while also attending the evening céilithe, I highly recommend planning for a midday nap.

Most céilithe won't wrap up until around midnight or even 1:00 a.m., and if you're a night owl, you'll probably find an Irish music session continuing in one of the local pubs long after the dancing ends.

Great Resources Before You Go

My algorithm is well-trained (ha!) and continues delivering excellent content from the wide and beautiful world of Irish music, language, and dance content creators. Highly recommend:

And if you're looking for a book before or during the trip, I highly recommend We Don't Know Ourselves: A Personal History of Modern Ireland by Fintan O'Toole. It's a powerful, poignant, and moving account of Ireland's transformation told through personal vignettes.

I hope these tips help you feel a little more prepared—and even more excited—for what's ahead!

If you have any questions while planning your own Ireland adventure, whether it's before or after our group trip, please don't hesitate to reach out. I'm always happy to talk Ireland, and I can't wait to share this incredible experience with all of you.

Slán go fóill ("goodbye for now")—I'll see you in Ireland!

Register for classes | Member Portal